Written by Simon Gardner

On 5th December 2008 I started out on the best travelling trip of my life to date. It covered three countries and a total of 15 different accommodations over six weeks.

This is not a log, diary or blog. It cannot be as I am writing it when I'm back in the UK. Normally when you write anything you should aim it at your target audience, but I'm writing this with so many goals that it may turn out a little hard to keep any specific focus. Therefore, you may find you want to skip over some sections. It is going to be a bit of a log for anyone that wants to know where I've been and what I've done. It also is a guide for anyone that wants to do a similar trip or wants to know where to visit, where to stay and what to do in all or any of the places I've been.

If you want to skip all the text and jump straight to the photos then just click here.

Japan
Tokyo

First stop was Tokyo. Very busy city. Even more neon signs than I expected. Seemed to be very few westerners there and no tourists.

We stayed at the Keio Plaza hotel which is quite swanky. Really great views from the bar at the top of the main tower.

Hotel side entrance. Quite tall...
View from the hotel bar at night
The first and most impressive (but bussiest) of the temples.

We got out wandering, using Catherine's lonely planet guide as a basis. We visited a few of the main temples. Quite impressive and certainly had the preconceived Japanese feel about them, but expect more impressive temples exist elsewhere in the country.

Ah, the perfect tourists: One with guide book open and other with camera hung around neck...
The crowds flocking around the temples.
Looks just like the arch outside Chinatown.
Another temple.
You could buy these little white sticks which you then set on fire and threw in these pots to let smoulder. I assume it was religeous or lucky.
View of the very pretty gardens with the city in the background.

We took a uninspiring boat trip down the river, but at the end of it were the city gardens. Quite a relief to find somewhere so refreshingly idyllic in such a busy city.

Giles and Howard seemed to mostly enjoy the photo opportunities there. They spent a lot of the time together chatting about which lens to use.

We did wander around the city a bit to get a feel of the place. We moved around by tube (when not on foot). After the warnings about it being an issue understanding the Japanese station names, it was a relief to find everything repeated with English names as well. Made the tube very useful. We grabbed day passes every morning, although finding such a tiny piece of pink cardboard in your pocket each time was a struggle.

Nothing in English on the machines so time to guess what the pictures mean.
Proof that westeners are taller than the majority in Japan.
Cathering queuing outside the sumo center

We tried to visit the sumo centre. Something was going on there, but with the language barrier it was too hard to work out what. We were hoping to get a map of all the training centres we could walk around, but no luck getting one and training had apparently finished. Looked like January onwards was when to go to see a proper match there.

The tower

We went up the tower (as all good tourists should). Despite the hideous colour of the tower itself the views were impressive. We got there as it was getting dark so had some time with light on it and then enjoyed the sun setting behind the city buildings and then the whole town lighting up. Quite amusing noting the red lights flashing everywhere. They are presumably aviation warning lights, but as so many of the buildings in Tokyo are so high you end up with a sea of red lights.

View from the tower.
View from the tower once it got dark.
Dodging one of the motorised trucks.

An early start for a visit to the fish market was well worth it. Felt quite chaotic. Little motorized trucks (one guy standing on them with a big horizontal steering wheel) flew around everywhere. Very narrow corridors (but then you have to remember it is not meant for tourists at all) with boxes of fresh or still alive fish lining them. Not good for vegetarians. We were glad Giles was not with us as soon as we got there when some guys spilt live fish all over the floor whilst draining the bucket they were in. Afterwards, obviously we had to try some sushi. Some of it was fantastic. Other bits, slightly more dubious. No idea what some of it was, but the yellow slimy stuff was a bit ikey, and the raw prawns were a bit suspect.

Adverts absolutely everywhere.

A wander around a recommended route was highlight of that afternoon. Saw some of the little streets of the city and plenty of the big lights and shops. Took in a cup of tea at the end of it in Starbucks to feel a bit of normality. Very 'British tourist' I know...

A visit to the local park was unsuccessful for Giles, Catherine and me. We were not fully clued up on some things being shut on a Monday. So, Howard and I went back again the next day. Impressive as gardens go, but nothing really noteworthy. Nicely quiet and empty though as they charge you to enter! Amusing to note that they seemed to believe that an English garden just means a few roses. Suppose it is just about fair enough, and it is not like they are the only country out there which thinks that.

Then off to the imperial palace. Very unspectacular. Very few buildings there and a few big walls and a moat is not really enough to impress me. Apparently they all burnt down just 16 years after being built. Not really worth keeping then surely... Do away with it and stick in a few more skyscrapers if you ask me.

Amusing moment of the day was when it started to rain and Howard proceeded to moan about everyone having umbrellas, at which point I got mine out. His answer to this was to take a bag and try that on his head. Very fetching...

Entranceway to the imperial palace was one of the only bit still standing.
I don't think it will take off as the latest fashion craze somehow.
Overall advice on Japan: Don't spend more than a few days in Tokyo. It soon gets a bit much. According to Giles and Catherine (who spent longer in Japan), Kyoto was much prettier and less intense. Best to go during their summer and preferably when the pound is at a slightly less disastrous position compared to the pound so you can enjoy some shopping. We had to pay around £9 just for a small beer in the hotel bar...

Overall impression of Japan: Tokyo was a bit too busy and frantic. Very impressive set of skyscrapers (especially viewed from high up at night), but they also gave it an oppressive feel.

Australia
Cairns

Overnight trip to Cairns meant an early arrival where we could not check straight in to the youth hostel. That meant a nice morning walk along the coast. Not really being used to sunshine both of us took the opportunity to get our first sunburn.

The youth hostel there was great. Cairns Central YHA. Room was big and comfortable (read: 'the air-con was great'). There was even a pool, although there was not much seating around it and a trio of British girls took permanent residence on the best spots.

There was some serious chilling done in Cairns. It was considered the 'holiday' part of this travelling trip. The food was great. Both of us agreed on the steak we had the first night. It was the best we had ever tasted. And we had different cuts of meat as well... The whole week did seem to be about how much red meat we could manage to eat. Quite a few beers drunk as well. Not very authentic, but the Irish pub PJ O'Biens was probably the pick of them.

Obviously I had to try diving at the great barrier reef. We went out on a Quicksilver boat called Silverswift. Definitely made a welcome change from going out in a little, basic tug of a boat as I'm used to when diving. This had morning tea laid on, comfortable seats, a lounging deck as well as all the organised supervision and set-up for preparing for the dives. Actually under the water the coral is spectacular, but not many fish. Only down to about 14 meters so that may explain it. Got hit by some unusual currents on the first dive. The second dive was much calmer, but due to the currents the third was due to be at the same dive site so I skipped that. Maybe I'm just spoilt from diving in Thailand and the Maldives up until then. Went snorkelling instead. Soon gave that up as it is nothing compared to diving. It was jellyfish season as well and there certainly were a few about. Even with full stinger suits on plenty of people were getting stung. Not such an issue underwater I found.

The one touristy trip we took in Cairns was up to Kuranda in the rain forest. Cable car up with great views of the Cairns and the surrounding area and the rain forest. The board-walks they had at the stops on the way were great as well. Kuranda itself is a little village with the feel of being set in the middle of nowhere and now completely turned over and dominated by tourism. Although that means it is not authentic, it does make for a very enjoyable trip. Visited the Koala zoo there. Not actually many Koalas in there (they are pretty dull as they don't move at all anyway), but the crocodiles, lizards, etc. kangaroos and wallabies made it well worth the visit. Also visited the venom zoo. Small dark little place, with an array of the deadliest snakes and spiders they could find. Hard to see the snakes as they were kept well protected from us, but the commentated tour of the spiders (and other suitably small creepy crawlies) made up for it. Free (probably voluntary, but just went for it anyway) photo shot of you holding a snake on your way out too.

Melbourne

Ok, so this might have been the main point of this trip. We were there to attend Grant and Sheila's wedding (Grant is an old work colleague), but we still spent six nights there.

The Eureka tower sticking up between the trees of the local park.

First up was a trip up the Eureka tower for amazing views of the city. As it is relatively new (couple of years) it is the highest point still in the city and very organised with the sights pointed out with little viewing tubes rather than the normal signposted maps. Definitely recommended for anyone going to Melbourne. We did 'the edge experience' as well. That basically means you stand in a box with glass walls as it is moved to protrude from the building and then after some over dramatic glass cracking noise the walls all go transparent and you can see in all directions (down obviously meant to be the most scary). Slightly underwhelming as, despite their best efforts (making you where paper bags over your shoes), the floor is quite scratched and you are used to the height looking out from the viewing deck. Still a bit surprised my vertigo did not kick in at all. Free 'I survived the edge' wrist band (which Howard wore the whole time until the last night of the whole trip when it snapped) and opportunity to buy pictures they take (not allowed to take your camera in there in case you drop it) but as normal we didn't bother.

View from Eureka tower.
Federation square and the city.
The tennis arena and olypic stadium.
Albert park.

Then off for my choice of going to Albert park. That is where the formula one race is every year. Nice park, but had to really make out the track and very little there indicating it is used for such a prestigious event. In fact, amazing that so little of the extravaganza is permanent. Stopped for a quick drink in one of the pit garages which was being used as a reception for the sports centre. Felt quite bizarre. According to my calculations it is probably going to be a BMW garage in the '09 season.

The next day was time to meet up with Giles and Catherine. After getting sorted for the wedding and eating I headed off on my own to the royal botanic gardens. Very, very impressive. Really good mixture of secluded paths, open grass for picnics, impressive lakes and arrays of flower beds. Easily the best of the 'gardens' visited and comfortably beating anything we have in London.

Then, in our hire car, off to the wedding. About an hour our of Melbourne the road turns slightly upwards and hidden away was the venue. We stayed in a little cottage in a conference centre not far from the actual venue. Quite nice to actually stay in a house for a night, although it was a bit chilly. The wedding was great. Not quite used to the Aussie order of things. We turned up early and Grant was not even dressed yet and the bar was not open! But the ceremony was lovely and the reception (in the same location) suitably grand. Good speeches, great food and impressed that Grant and Sheila had a choreographed routine for their first dance (although I felt a bit like a 'strictly' judge mentally noting all the bad points...)

The day after went back to the wedding venue to meet up with the happy couple and a couple of their friends who were over from New Plymouth, New Zealand. Went up to the observatory for great views over the surrounding area, including all the way to Melbourne and the coast. Then into the maze there for a bit of a giggle. Wonderful day.

The last day in Melbourne was taken up with a drive along the great ocean road at my insistence. Kept the hire car so made sense. A beautiful sunny day for it. Great views of the coast and people surfing and lifeguard training. Went to the lighthouse, but decided not to bother going in. So happy we went though as on that road was where we saw all the koalas in the wild. All asleep, naturally, but was good fun just trying to spot them from the car and then joining the flocks of tourists stopping on the side of the road to get snaps. Obviously the most spectacular bit was the twelve apostles (or the 7 or so that are left). That is where we turned around and headed back.

Overall impression of Melbourne: Loved it. Quite surprised how much. Very organised city still with enough dedicated areas to a 'feel'. Would definitely be able to live there. Would have loved to have spent longer. Never got to the St Kilda for the beach and would have loved to have spent longer, taking our time on the great ocean road.

Sydney
The opera house from the Rocks.

We were in Sydney mainly for the new year fireworks. That dictated that we had to spend 10 nights there to minimise the cost on the flights.

No chance of getting into the YHA here over xmas and new year so we were in two hotels. The first was very central, only a few minutes walk from Darling harbour. The second was a little walk south of central station. Both were fairly nice, but would have prefered to be in a hostel over that time period.

The harbour bridge (and me).

In the time we had there was plenty of chilling done, but we did get to see quite a bit. The first day was a trip to look around Darling harbour. I really liked it. Lots of water features, a park, many, many restaurants and plenty of chilling area regularly populated with buskers with suitably disapointing 'grand finales'.

We obviously went up to see the opera house and bridge fairly early on. The opera house is as impressive as everyone makes out, but the bridge, well, I like the coat hanger accross the harbour analagy I read.

Roayal botanic gardens with city behind.

We also took a walk around the royal botanic gardens. Although not as impressive as Melbourne they were good, but would have been better without the rain. Possibly made our way onto british tele whilst we were there. They were filming some live piece for GMTV of lots of screaming brits mostly dressed up in santa costumes and waving St George's flags around. We were the ones at the back looking a little confused as to what was going on...

A trip up the tower was less than wonderful as it started to rain, but, hey, a tower is a tower and there are only so many buildings you can look at from above.

Another day of rain put pay to the planned bridge climb so we went to the aquarium instead. Some of it was pretty good. Then to the cinema to avoid getting totally soaked.

Xmas tree made of chairs at Rocks square.

Both of us did quite a bit of wandering around fairly randomly. My best find was probably kings cross, but we never did get back there as it was a bit too far for a pair of lazy brits like ourselves. The Rocks were good as well. Quaint and chilled. Howard, being not so impressed with the fact it was renowned for its cafe's and bars decided on a subway for lunch. How classy.

Fountain at Kings Cross.

We found a good Irish pub around the corner from our first hotel. Most nights were spent there. A couple of the nights may have been a little too boozy. In the second place we spent a bit more time chilling in the room with a beer and a battle on our Nintendo DS's. No overall winner.

Eating out was a little hit and miss. Went a lot to darling harbour as it was so close and there is so much choice. Pick was probably on the last night when we met up with Claire (ex-CMC) who booked the restaurant with her friend who now lives and works in Sydney, Nicko. That was darling harbour again up in King's warf.

Manly beach on xmas day.

Xmas day was a bit of a non-event festivity-wise. Many of beers on xmas eve in a couple of venues ending in the above mentioned Irish pub saw a late start. Then the ferry to Manly. Amazing views of the harbour, city and opera house. Well worth the trip just for that. Chilling on the beach had to be done as we were getting reports from back home of everyone chilling literally in some of the coldest weather ever experienced in the UK.

The opera house from the ferry.
Manly beach was lovely. Wish we had spent longer there or gone back. Also great to see that the rumours are true and Aussies do really spend their xmas day afternoons playing cricket. There were loads of friendly, family games going on.
The city from the ferry on the way back.
With very little choice (read only one place being open) as it was xmas day, we hardly stuck with xmas tradition and had a steak for dinner.

Bondi beach on boxing day.

Boxing day was spent on Bondi beach. Got advice to get the bus there and fortunately could pay on the bus (been told you needed to buy tickets in advance). Very, very busy beach as you would expect. Amazingly wonderful weather. Nice to have a dip in the sea although we were at the end with waves so it was a bit treacherous dodging surfers at the same time as being engulfed by a wave. Nice cold beer at a nearby bar afterwards.

Amusing moment of the day was me stripping off when we got back and realising my tanning hadn't exactly gone to plan and I had burnt my neck, a random patch on my chest and patches on both ankles. Not the ideal look.

The blue mountains.

Between xmas and new year in Sydney we took a trip up to the Blue mountains. Didn't have any accommodation booked and the first few places we tried were fully booked, so we ended up in the Claredon guest house. It wasn't too bad, but over priced for a small room with bunk-beds.

The plan for the first day was to jump on the tourist bus which takes you around all the good viewing points. We walked from the first point to the third passing beautiful rainforrest, waterfalls and good viewing points of the Three Sisters. Then we arrived at the scenic park and queued up to get tickets for the 'scenic railway' and cable car. I use the quotes around 'scenic railway' because there was not much scenic about it. It was originally used for access to the coal mine so not really built for tourists and a chunk of it is through a tunnel. It claims to be the steepest railway in the world. Very, true it was very steep, but I'm not sure about the railway bit when it is driven by a cable. Surely that makes it a cable car or lift?
The Three Sisters.
We then planned to do the 30 minutes walk to the cable car instead of the 10 minute board walk and that is where things started to go wrong. We must have taken a wrong turn and the path soon got a bit treacherous. A half-hour in and we guessed we were on the 2 hour walk not the 30 minute one. An hour in and we gave up on that thought too. The path had even been swept away by a landslide at some point and spotting the yellow arrows dotted around on poles or drawn on rocks was the only way of 'safe' navigation. It was at that point that Howard decided that flip-flops were not quite the correct footwear for it. Eventually we chatted to a couple of people coming the other way and found our way out. It was up 'the golden staircase' which was basically large steps up a very steep incline. Hard work and I can see why everyone else was doing going from top to bottom rather than the bottom to top route we took. Ah, well. All part of the adventure. A walk along the dirt track of a road led us back to the scenic park only to find we had missed the last bus. Kept walking back to the guest house. That was a lot of walking all-in-all considering we were not prepared with a map, enough water or appropriate footwear.

Howie finally deciding flip-flops should not be warn whilst walking over a landslide.

Day two in the blue mountains was spent on a trip to some nearby caves. Still over an hour's drive by coach to get there, but with some good comentary from the driver. The caves were spectular. Felt a little overdone for tourists with chisled out and concreted corridors and metal staircases everywhere. Each 'room' in the cave had its own light show orchestrated by the guide and one even had music. Still well worth the visit, but broke my rule of more travelling to get there than you actually spent at the place.

The highlight of the time in Sydney, and probably the whole trip were the new year's eve fireworks. Every bit as spectactular as expected. We went up to the terapean precinct in the royal botanic gardens. Got there around 1pm and they shut the gates a couple of hours later. Camped there all day long, me sheilding myself from the sun with an umbrella and Howie soaking up the rays and moaning as soon as the sun started to go down. Not such a good view of the 9pm fireworks from where we were. Howard moved down a bit and had a better view. So, when it was nearing midnight we moved a bit further along and had a great view of the bridge. Amazing to see so many fireworks shoot up, down and out of the bridge. Also, a quick spin around and caught some of the fireworks coming out of the tower and surrounding tall buildings in the city. Fantastic.

New Zealand
Auckland
View of the city with the Sky City tower (part of the hotel complex we were in).

Auckland did not exactly 'wow' me. It felt very grey and uninspiring. There just did not feel like there were many people around, especially in the evening. Therefore, it was a good job we were in the Sky City Grand hotel. Uber plush. 5 star and showed it. Missed out on a massage as that was all booked up, but took a nice swim in the pool (proper exercise whilst on holiday: shock, horror!).

First evening was down in the viaduct basin. First opportunity to taste New Zealand lamb in New Zealand was not wasted. Fantastic. Then spent the rest of it sat upstairs in a bar chatting. As normal I tried a few different local beers before settling on one which I really liked. Did not even remember the name of it on the night unfortunately.

The first morning I wandered off for a bit of a wander around Ponsby and then around the shops on Queen's street. Bought myself a t-shirt and all-blacks tie as souveniers. Both on the classier end of tacky.

That evening was a buffet in the hotel followed by a trip to the casino to keep Howard's gambling tendencies sated. He was up on the pokies. I spent more time having a beer by the bar overlooking the very busy blackjack and roulete tables.

Rotorua
Impressively neat buildings in Rotarua town.

We took a national coach to Rotarua. Not overly recommended. Not much to see, but it got us there.

Immediately impressed by how neat, tidy and clean the town of Rotarua was. Shame it was a Sunday and completely empty. That unfortunately meant a stop into Maccy D's for food, but followed by a walk around the edge of lake Rotarua. Very, very impressive. Lots of bubbling mud, beautiful views of the lake with hills in the background. Well marked and worn path with a few boards with snippets on the wildlife and history on them. The walk then took me back through the town via the gardens with immaculate bowling greens and geyser (read hole in the ground with a bit of steam rising out of it).

Bubbling mud. Still not making me want to dive in...

Second day there and we were off to one of the volcanic parks. Impressive bubbling mud pool (but it was still just more bubbling mud) and geyser (which they trigger for the tourists at an exact time every day using soap powder). Then it was a walk around the park to see all the different coloured rocks, lakes and steaming holes in the ground. Impressive, but did not take long to start just seeing them all as the same old thing. Most impressive was the champagne pool which was large and billowing huge amounts of steam.

Geyser getting going.
Geyser going off.
Champagne pool - steaming.
Howie surrounded by the steam coming off the champagne pool.
Champagne pool showing off the pretty colour rock it has dredged up.
Pretty colour lake being admired by not so pretty Howard.
The 'duck' exiting the lake.

Still time to fit in a tour of the local lakes. This was on an old WW2 amphibious vehicle. Really tacky trip, but fitted it perfectly. The vehicle was called a duck and therefore painted bright yellow and we were given duck quackers to blow at anyone and everyone we passed on the street. We even got the mission impossible music when we first drove straight down the jetty into the lake. Was amusing watching people aghast as we did it though.

The 'duck' - tour as tacky and as fun as the vehicle looked.

Back staying in the YHA after our luxury break in Auckland. We actually used the facilities for once and Howie knocked up a spag bol. Suitably accompanied by a bottle of wine to share and several beers of course.

Wellington
View of Wellington from the harbour. Lots of homes on the mountainside.

A short domestic flight took us to Wellington. This is the city I was born in and the first time I'd been back in 31 years. Not exactly nostalgic as I obviously don't remember any of the first 9 months of my life there, but I was delighted to finally see the city where I came into this world.

Excessively windy city, but well laid out and quite unique with loads of houses built on the side of the mountains with view of the harbour. Quite why they wanted a view of the harbour I'm not too sure. That was the ugly industrial bit if you ask me, but then who am I to comment when I overlook a couple of train lines and the back of a few office blocks...

Wellington from the top of the cable car.

Very big YHA meant it was missing the normal friendly feel about it, but then we were only there for one night.

Took the cable car for a quick ride up to the top of one of the hills. Then, after admiring the view of the city, walked down through the botanical gardens. Good escape from the city as the trees are so high your view of the buildings are blocked. Howie was fascinated by the herb garden and the factoids on different herbs.

I then went for a wander to the national museum. Remembered quickly why I don't normally bother with museums. Their big exibit was a dead giant squid. Impressively big, but still just dead seafish under a sheet of glass. Much better when stuff is alive. Some of the history of the country and the Maoris was much more interesting. Still a few too many rocks and replicated buildings to keep my attention for very long.

Time to stop in the RBGs for a chill.
Rose garden in the RBGs. Good place to stop for an ice cream.
Lots of pretty flowers and high tress making the Royal Botanic Gardens very tranquil.
Another view of Wellington from the RBGs.

Hard to find that many places to eat, but we got lucky. Amazing restaurant where you order a few dishes to share. Still worked out reasonably priced and the food was awesome.

Nelson
The beach.

Another short flight to Nelson. We picked up our hire car (Toyota Corrola) from the airport. That was our transport around the South Island.

The beach.

Stayed in another YHA hostel. This one quite nice with large kitchen and a garden, but still only one night there so didn't make use of it fully yet again.

The day we arrived we headed off to the nearby Abel Tasman national park. Soon gave up on that idea though once we found a pretty beach. Such a lovely sunny day that we decided a chill and a tan top-up beat walking around the park.

Greymouth

We took the opportunity to stop a couple of times on the drives. The best stop on this leg of the journey was a visit to a swing bridge. It looks tame at the start with much jumping around on it, etc. but by the middle we had a slightly more wary approach to it. Nice walk at the other end stopping off at the river.

Amusing moment of the day was by the river throwing skimming stones and Howie somehow managing to completely hook a throw and nearly hit a guy, also throwing stones, in the head. Time for rapid exit./p>

Only one night as a stop off on the way down the west coast, but still too long in Greymouth. Really dull uninspiring town. Would not recommend anyone stays there. Try Westport instead.

Franz Josef
The Franz Josef glacier from the bottom of the valley.

We were here for the glacier. Rather concerned at first as it was teeming down with rain when we arrived and that continued through the evening. But, our luck held out and we had beautiful sunshine for the full days hike up the glacier.

Cooked in the YHA that first evening as we could not face going out twice into the rain. Needed food for lunch the next day as well.

Our group hiking up the glacier.

The glacier hike was every bit as incredible as expected. Took quite a hike just to get there accross the rocky surface and through the surrounding undergrowth to avoid crossing the main river (still had to wade through a couple of streams). When finally at the bottom attached crampons to the provided hiking boots ready for the trek up the ice. We were in the 5th out of 6 groups due to our generosity moving down from the middle groups. Was the only disapointment of the day as we were a bit slow and missed out on a few things. Still, plenty of opportunity to take photos and admire the view. Still walked down some stupidly narrow gullies where you end up drenched at the end of and hauling ourselves up some steep tracks. Every hard path has steps carved out of them. Each of the guides has a pick-axe to hack away at the ice when you reach it. Did not really lose the adventurous feel as much as I expected, but they certainly were safety conscious avoiding anything which looked a bit deep or treacherous. Not really suprising considering two brothers died at the nearby fox glacier the day before though and considering our group. One guy in his late 50's had a fall in one of the narrow gullies wedging himself in whilst horizontal. Took our guide (Robin) and me to haul him back up. Not easy when there is nothing but a sheer sheet of slippery ice to get any traction on.

Amusing moment of the day was back at the YHA with Howie recounting seeing some guy with pasty white ankles and then darked tanned legs from the point where obviously the walking socks had ended to where his shorts had ended. Then for me to change into shorts and spot that I had the same tan line on the bottom half of my legs except for it being burn rather than tanned. (I was not as bad as the other guy though apparently).

If you are going to do a glacier hike like this, here or at the fox glacier, definitely go for the full day. It takes quite a hike to get to the glacier so maximise time on the ice and also with the half day you miss out on some of the more adventurous parts.
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Queenstown

Definitely the best drive we had getting there. The big advantage of being in a car was we could stop whenever we wanted to grab a snap of the beautiful scenery and we did just that. From Haast onwards there were signposts to all the most idyllic spots and then it was just taking your pick of what you wanted to see.

Three nights, but only really two full days in Queenstown was never really going to be enough, so we packed in what we could. Day one took us on a jet boat ride along shotover river. It was the 'skippers canyon' tour. It included a mini-bus up a mountain for great views and anecdotes from our driver who had been a guide for the film crew on the Lord of the Rings movies. He pointed out some of the filming locations as well us giving us some stories of his experience with the stars of the film. Apparently 'the hobbits' had spooked Sean Bean on a helicopter ride to one of the locations resulting in him refusing to ride in one again meaning some long hikes up mountains including a 2am start for one day of filming and conversely Orlando Bloom ignored his contract and was the main one trying all the adrenaline sports (finding the 'best way to nearly kill himself') that Queenstown has to offer. The jet boat ride itself was great. Certainly fast and close to the canyon walls. Everyone got suitably wet. The trip also took us up to the 2nd ever commercial bungee site. It is now disused due to not being high enough. The 102 meters above the river certainly looked high enough to me! Possibly the scariest part of the day though was getting there and back. Along a tiny track of a road along the side of a mountain with 300+ meter drops on one side with a driver who did not seem that fussed about that fact and carried on commentating and driving pretty fast even though the wheels seemed to be less than an inch from the edge at time.

Back in Queenstown itself it was then up the gondola. Queenstown is a ski resort in the winter so you have to expect such a ride. Good views and a luge track at the top which we gave a go. That was not much though. Little go-kart style vehicles just without the power. Not at all scary, but then we were on the scenic track and not the advanced. I saw quickly why they make you do a scenic run first before being allowed on the advanced though when I got the seemingly very stable kart up on two wheels on the first corner...

Quick game of mini-golf followed. Howard pipped me by two shots despite my being up after the front 9. I still could have claimed the victory as Howard did not quite understand that less is good in golf and thought I had cheated him at the end. I calmly explained that 'no, less shots is definitely better'. Still we were both way over par and no where near the scores others were managing on the day.

The day was topped off with a meal in a swanky restaurant by the lake where Stephen Fry was dining a couple of tables away from us. Howard was a little aghast when I recognised him and pointed him out but could not for the life of me remember his name. Not sure I'm going to be let to forget that.

Amusing moment of the day was during the mini-golf game when Howard laughing when I took 8 shots on a par 3 hole only to duplicate the feat a couple of holes later. Neither of us is going to be taking this up professionally!

Boarding the plane.

The next day was an early start to catch a slightly smaller plane than we were used to. A small six man plane took us to Milford Sound. Amazing views all around. The plan ride was quickly followed by a two hour cruise past waterfalls, sleeping seals and the natural beauty of the place. Then jumped on a helicopter to get us back to Queenstown. My first ever ride in a helicopter and I was amazed at how effortless it was taking off and how manouverable. We stopped off at the local glacier. Barely seemed much of the glacier to land on and I was till in flip-flops which was not ideal for walking through snow, but that made it all the more random and enjoyable.

Flying is the way to visit Milford Sound. Uncomparable views compared to on the boat and avoid the 4 1/2 hour drive to get there.
Twizzel

Very much a stop off on the drive accross the country and only because we could not book accommodation in Lake Tekapu, but suprisingly quaint. Not a lot to do there, but time for Howard to try and top his tan back up so he could show off to the 'pasty-white' friends back home and still a few good places to choose from to eat.

Christchurch
Cathedral square with the big chess board.

So the final destination of our travels. Started with a bit of a wander around. Mainly cathedral square. Lots going on there, but spent it watching the games of chess on the giant board there.

View of Lyttleton from the top of the gondola.

The first evening we met up with Martin (my ex house mate at uni who has lived in Christchurch for the last 6 years) and his new fiance Fen. Nice meal in the 'Dux de lux' before a few games of pool in a sport bar and then onto the 'Twisted hop'. That was one of those bars which was great, but a tourist would never find randomly, tucked away down a little side alley as it was. That was a definite advantage of being shown around a city like that by a resident. Was great to catch up with Martin again.

The next day (after a bit of a lie-in) was a trip to the gondola. Not very inspiring. Not really high enough to give great views and Christchurch does not have that much too look at anyway. Time-tunnel inside the main gondola building was a suitably tacky way of learning a bit of the historical foundings of Christchurch though and how it was all formed from volcanoes.

View of Christchurch from the top of the gondola.

Evening two was meeting Rachael (ex CMC collegue who is now heavily pregnant). She drove us to a beach in Lyttleton with a quick stop to grab some fish and chips. Her and Howie then braved the freezing cold water for a quick swim before we all headed to 'the Dux' for a few drinks.

An awful lot of travelling to get back home. Took us nearly two full days I think. 28 hours of flying. Still most of that flying was in a brand new (well second ever flight) of a A380. Lots of films to watch. Transferred at Sydney and stop for fuel at Singapore. Not exactly delighted to be home. The day before Christchurch had been 28 degrees and it was a rather chilly 4 degrees when we landed at Heathrow. Not overly helped with the fact we were both still in shorts and flip-flops though...

Overall
Top 5 places we stayed in:
  1. Melbourne
  2. Queenstown
  3. Cairns
  4. Sydney
  5. Christchurch

The whole trip was amazing. We got it pretty right all being said. Maybe I wouldn't do the Japan stop-over again. If going to Japan I'd do it in their summer and get out of the city pretty quickly. Would have like longer in Melbourne and probably could have cut out time in Sydney, but that pre-determined by the prices of the flights and the timing of the wedding and new year. We did end up moving some of the days around in New Zealand, so that was not bad. I'd have like longer in Wellington and Queenstown. Instead of staying in Greymouth we should have tried Westport and then driven down the coast instead of inland.

Top 5 trips:
  1. Flight/heli to Milford Sound
  2. Jet boat ride in Queenstown
  3. Walk/hike in the blue mountains
  4. Walk around lake Rotorua
  5. Cable car to Kuranda

We travelled on a round the world ticket from BA/Qantas. It was booked through Trailfinders who were great at giving the advice we needed to get the trip planned from the very vague outline we initially had.

Top 5 places missed out on:
  1. Bridge climb in Sydney
  2. Waitomo caves
  3. St. Kilda, Melbourne
  4. Grampions, Melbourne
  5. Most of the places in the Blue Mountains

I finished the trip with definite thoughts of going back and visiting all three countries again. Top choice for a return trip would be Australia and I'd stick with staying in Australia the whole time I think. So many cities we didn't visit and I'd go back to all three we did.

I had put off doing the whole travelling holiday (compared to chilling holiday) my whole life. I never thought I would take to it. That was always my sister's thing and not going to suit me. This trip changed my mind though. I can definitely do it and love it. As expected though, I'm much more suited to doing travelling with a good wadge of cash in my bank account and am still not sure I could go on a budget. Whether I will embark on such a big travelling trip as this again in my life, I'm not too sure. If I do, it has an awful lot to live up to.